CREAM OF CAULIFLOWER SOUP (SOUP DU BARRY)

MY TAKE

When the temperature drops there is nothing like a bowl of hot soup to warm you up. I will be presenting quite a few soup recipes in The Journal but, for now, I would like to introduce you to one of my favourite vegetable soups - the French version of Cream of Cauliflower (choux-fleur) Soup, which is quick and easy to make and provides a great starter for any meal but can also be a satisfying meal in itself.

The cauliflower season in Western Canada is December to March and although you can buy cauliflower at any time of year, you will find the best quality cauliflowers at the best prices when it is in season. I have only ever used white cauliflower for this soup as it really is a startlingly pretty colour to serve! Unlike a typical potage type soup, I prefer the smooth and velvety texture of a velouté. I am particularly enamoured with the history of the French version of this soup and, since it is about to be Valentine’s Day, why not pick a soup that has a love story behind it!

All veloutés are potages but not all potages are veloutés. The key difference lies in the enrichment and thickening method - veloutés are specifically thickened with a “liaison” of egg yolks, butter and cream, resulting in a richer and more luxurious texture than a soup thickened with potatoes or other vegetables.

HISTORY

Cauliflower soup has a long history in French cuisine, dating back to at least the 18th century. It is often associated with classic French cooking techniques that emphasize simplicity, refinement, and the use of fresh ingredients.

Origins and Early Mentions

In the 17th and 18th centuries, cauliflower became a popular vegetable in France, thanks in part to its introduction from Italy during the Renaissance.
French culinary texts from the 18th century, such as those by François Pierre La Varenne and Marie-Antoine Carême, included recipes for pureed vegetable soups, which likely inspired early versions of cauliflower soup.
Crème du Barry (Potage Dubarry): One of the most famous French cauliflower soups is called “Crème du Barry” or “Soup Du Barry” in honour of Madame du Barry, the last mistress of King Louis XV of France. She was known for her refined taste and a deep fondness for cauliflower, a fashionable ingredient in 18th-century French cuisine, and many cauliflower-based dishes were named after her. Louis XV was said to have been totally in love with her even though she did not have an aristocratic background! He was forced to relinquish his love for her in order to please the Church just before he died of smallpox! Crème du Barry is also called Velouté de Chou-Fleu,

Countess du Barry (1743-1793)

Following the death of Madame de Pompadour in 1764, Jeanne Bécu (known as “Mademoiselle Vaubernier”) became the king's official mistress, and moved to Versailles in 1768. In spite of the best efforts of the Duke of Choiseul (Secretary of State and an ally of the king's former mistress) and the scorn poured upon her by the Dauphine Marie Antoinette, she managed to hold onto her place in the Court until the death of Louis XV. A great lover of the arts, she was a patron to various painters and craftsmen and nurtured the Neo-Classical style at Versailles.

Modern Adaptations

In modern French cooking, cauliflower soup is often served with various garnishes like croutons, truffle oil, or toasted almonds.
Contemporary chefs sometimes add ingredients such as gruyère cheese, leeks, or nutmeg to enhance the flavour profile.

NOTES

You will find many recipes for Soup du Barry on-line. The recipe I have chosen for my Soup du Barry is in fact inspired by Chef Vivien Lebecq, and a link to his demonstration of his version of the recipe is provided below. He is rather fun to watch!

This recipe is very straightforward and there really isn't anything that can go wrong. The best part is that it does not take very long to make and whilst the flavour can develop a little by making it ahead of time, in fact the taste is excellent immediately. I like to use leeks but if you do not have any, onions or scallions will do. Leeks however do provide a slightly sweeter flavour. Adding nutmeg is optional as is your choice of toppings. When serving, it is traditional to add a drizzle of olive oil and some al dente mini florets of cauliflower (which the French call “sommité”, meaning summit), slivered almonds, a drizzle of balsamic reduction, or mild curry-flavoured sunflower oil. If you wish to add some green herbs - Chervil (a member of the parsley family with a mild flavour) is a good choice. You could add some mini croutons but I find I enjoy a slice or two of melba toast as croutons can interfere with the smoothness of the soup. Using an egg yolk is really not a concern as the yolk is fully cooked in the hot soup, therefore not raw with a risk of salmonella. If you are concerned make sure you use a yolk from a pasteurized egg. I generally have used both store bought or home-made vegetable stock for this soup - however a chicken or veal stock can also produce a great flavour.

LET'S TALK

Please let me know how you fare with this recipe and if you have any suggestions to improve it? Send me your photos and your comments. I would love to hear about your favourite vegetable soup recipes!

THE RECIPE - CREAM

OF CAULIFLOWER SOUP

Servings: 6-8 Prep time: 20 min Total time: 45 min

INGREDIENTS

80g sliced leeks (white part only)

40g unsalted butter

40g all purpose flour

600g chopped white cauliflower (florets only)

1 large egg yolk

100g heavy cream

1.25 litres of stock (vegetable, chicken, veal or water)

1/2 tsp each of salt and pepper

Pinch of nutmeg (optional)

For decoration: balsamic reduction, curried oil, cream, chervil, slithered almonds

INSTRUCTIONS

Remove the bitter stalk and leaves from the cauliflower, reserving the florets. Wash carefully. Clean and slice the leeks.
In a large, heavy pot, melt the butter then sweat the leeks in it until translucent but not brown. After 4-5 minutes, add the flour and stir together well until a smooth paste forms.
Prepare stock and gradually whisk in the hot stock. Add the cauliflower florets, setting aside a few of the raw, smallest florets for decor. Bring to the boil. Cover, turn down the heat and leave to simmer gently for about 25 minutes.
Towards the end of cooking, in a separate bowl, whisk the egg yolk with the cream, salt and pepper.
Using a hand-held blender, or countertop blender, blitz the soup until well blended and smooth
Add a ladle-full of the hot soup to the egg yolk and cream mixture to temper and pour the mixture into the remaining soup - continue to stir until fully incorporated. Adjust seasoning if necessary.
Serve topped with a choice of: al little chervil, tiny al dente cauliflower florets, slightly toasted almond slithers, a drizzle of balsamic reduction or all lightly curried olive oil and/or a little cream (toppings are totally your choice).